Using a meter with the probe into the connector whilst operating the window switch I discovered that I only had 11.5 volts at this point compared with 12.5 when measuring directly onto the battery. I thought that this was an obvious candidate for a couple of relays but I decided to investigate further, having first cleaned the connections with switch cleaner.

I removed the door speaker grille followed by three screws and disconnected the two connecting wires. At the bottom of the door, below the hole there are wires secured by a cable tie which I carefully removed with wire cutters.

The block shown below connects to the window motor:

Connector Block 2

Connector Block 2

Having cleaned this with switch cleaner too I discovered even less voltage at this point! I think the reason is that the cable going to the door has to be thin enough to flex without breaking when the door is opened.

I had already sprayed silicone lubricant onto the rear window runner which is accessible from the top with the window down, and the front one via the speaker hole with the window up, but this had little effect.

The motor is connected to the window lifter in the same manner as the windscreen wipers, i.e. an open sided tube with a spring spiral inside which rotates when the motor is in operation.

This is accessible without difficulty through the speaker hole, and without removing the door trim (which is exceedingly difficult to do).

I lubricated this with copper grease throughout as much of its length as possible (you'll need the window up for this). After this simple treatment on my car the window goes up and down even quicker than it takes for the other one to go up.

Having done this I decided that relays were not really necessary, in any event the motor would still be straining against the friction if the above was not done.

Tips

Don't forget to fit a new cable tie to replace the one removed.
Never operate the window with hands or tools inside the door!

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